My Farmhouse is Your Farmhouse
If the life of an international tour guide sparks mild feelings of envy, then save that deadly sin for Ciclismo’s Allesandro "Sandro" Draghi, who lives the way most of us dream to vacation.
Sandro, a trained biologist, tour guide, and wine sommelier, knows exactly where you're coming from. Tired of the honking, jostling, polluting city life, he finally tore himself from its grip in 1996 and transplanted to rural Tuscany, where he and his family run “Il Molinello ,” an agriturismo just outside Siena.
What is an agriturismo? A contraction of "agriculture" and "tourism", it is a rural vacation destination based around a farmhouse. An agriturismo will usually serve foods from a raw state produced right on the farm or at least locally, with an uncompromising emphasis on freshness and seasonality. Some will also offer farm activities you can participate in and get "mud on your boots."
Amid the Etruscan ruins including a tumulus (ancient burial mound), medieval mill, very old oak trees, and heavenly peace and quiet, Sandro and his family invite you to experience Slow Food - food that is locally-produced and not industrially processed in any way, that you can enjoy at a rural pace.
The inspiration at Il Molinello begins at breakfast: "Having breakfast at Il Molinello means eating fresh food or food prepared right here. Bread and cakes are cooked by us using organic flours from nearby farms, organic eggs from our hens, and organic chicken from Valdarno. We make organic jams; honey comes from organic farms in Asciano and Rapolano. We grow or source local organic fresh fruit; juices come from the biodynamic farm Terra d’Arcoiris. Cold cuts are wild and organic. Cheese comes from local farms, like Spereta, Vergelle and La Fonte, almost always made from organic, raw milk. Even cornflakes, granola, juices, yogurts, tea, herb teas and milk are organic."
Ciclismo sales manager Christy Mraz had an enviable stay at Sandro's house, after completing the Assaggio Toscana tour Sandro led in September.
"He's incredible. Though his website says they don't want to "teach" you so much as let you organically experience the delicious pace and space of Il Molinello, he never stops being an unstoppable fountain of knowledge and enthusiasm. Walking the grounds, photographing the sunset and his truffle trees, and witnessing first hand his research, uncovering and restoration that went into his 14th Century home was when we truly grasped the breadth of his passion. His love and attention to so many things was so clear to everyone. The floor around their sofa is actually glass so you can see the original mill, lit up beneath your feet! It’s a constant reminder of the history you're literally standing on. Sandro was actually nicknamed "The Passion" by a guest on the last night of the trip during a final toast."
Christy also fondly remembers the cycle coaching Sandro offered on their tour. "For me, it was help with my riding position for decents. For my husband Dion it how to get the best work-out while grinding up the 4km climb to Cortona at my slower speed!"
And what of Sandro's the Sommelier's legendary reputation for his knowledge of the grape?
"He would draw clear distinctions about the cultivation of the wines, the effect of different microclimates and so on, and not fall back into simple categorization. For example, if you ask for a "Super Tuscan" he'll be happy to order you one but would likely follow with an explanation of how the term tells you very little about the wine you'll be drinking, and then follow with as much clarification as you'd like. His home enoteca (collection of local wines) speaks wonders - he is much more interested in sharing his collection with guests than turning a profit by marking them up."
No matter how fast or slow you ride, or how into food or wine you are, Sandro is an extraordinary guide, teacher and friend, and if you time things right, you might like to add a week at his agriturismo to your next Ciclismo Classico tour. Now, won't your friends be envious?
Learn about Assaggio Toscana | Visit Il Molinello | Watch a video of Sandro
